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The Culinary Addict

Red Beans and Rice

I never appreciated red beans until I moved to New Orleans. One of my fondest food memories was spending time at my good friend Dirk’s house. Dirk is a true Cajun with generations of Louisiana blood before him. Having moved from Chicago in my teens I was rarely around a community that used food as the glue. Without exception, every time I entered Dirk’s house something was on the stove- etouffee, jambalaya, duck and sausage gumbo, boiling seafood, or a pot of red beans.

One of the most popular Louisiana dishes, Red Beans and Rice is found both in residential homes and restaurants alike. Red beans, a one pot meal, are traditionally served on Mondays which originated on wash day during plantation times. Thus moderate attention was needed as the beans simmered all day while chores were performed. Red Beans are believed to have found their way to South Louisiana via the Caribbean. A number of recipes for Red Beans exist, however, Dirk’s is my favorite.

Like all Cajun food, the Holy Trinity, acts as the flavor base with onions, celery, and bell pepper. It wouldn’t be red beans without some form of pork product such as Andouille sausage, salt pork (Dirk’s favorite), or a ham bone. The pork bone or belly was typically left over from the Sunday ham. Moreover, according to Dirk’s family, Red Beans are cheap and perceived as a cleansing meal after a weekend of indulgence. Water or stock is used for the bean liquid and heavily seasoned with white, black, cayenne peppers (all 3 peppers unique to Cajun food) as well as a blend of Cajun seasonings (after years of trying to emulate, Tony Chachere’s is best). Most Cajun food incorporates the same basic ingredients, however, a few simple details such as a roux, tomato product, or cooking time can drastically change the final product.

Dirk and his family always told me,”You gotta talk to your beans.” What resonated in those words are the care, attention, and respect they illustrated towards food. By respecting the process, stirring, adding beer, liquid, re-seasoning, etc. a basic set of ingredients resulted in a creamy texture with an amazing depth of flavor. Primarily due to economic reasons, Louisianians have always believed in sourcing locally and eating seasonally years before it became mainstream. “That’s just what we got,” Dirk’s dad Merlin (Mert) would say. “They aint red beans if you don’t use Camellia red beans,” Mert once informed me of the local favorite bean while he stirred a pot.

Looking back, my years in Louisiana influenced my decision to become a chef. The generational understating of cuisine that evolved from the vast cultures of Southern Louisiana make it uniquely their own. The pride taken in the process of their cooking techniques in conjunction with the integral part food plays in day to day life illustrates how food can be the cornerstone of communities within a culture. This refreshing approach to food helped form the chef I am today. Moreover, I had an early introduction to another important element of the Cajun culture- Alcohol, which began the intimate and ultimately demoralizing relationship that formed the foundation of my addiction.

Red Beans are a favorite dish for parties and large groups especially for sporting events this time of year. Camellia Red Beans are the best because they stay firm yet exude a creaminess without fully breaking down. In the Portland area, I substitute Ayers Creek Farm’s Borlotti Lamon beans (cranberry bean) which provide a similar result.

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For The Red Beans:

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Brown, Sweat, Add Liquid

-Heat oil in heavy bottom pan over medium high heat. Brown sausage in pan until caramelized on all sides. Remove.

-Add peppers, celery, onion, garlic, pork product and sweat vegetables until the fond (caramelization on bottom of pan) releases from pan. Add beans and liquid and bring up to a light boil.

-Add remaining spices and worchestire sauce. Taste to ensure proper seasoning. Seems trite, but the beans will absorb and take on the flavor of the liquid. Thus, if not properly seasoned before the simmering process it is hard for the beans to be fully seasoned later.

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1,2,3 Hour Intervals, Finished Product

- Slowly simmer. Don’t boil to rapidly because the outer part of the bean will become overcooked and the inners undercooked.

-Between 2-3 hour add sausage back into the beans.

-Simmer for 4-5 hours. Notice the line in the pan and the reduction of liquid over the cooking period.

-As the beans cook “talk to them” meaning stir and care for them. Over time they will slowly break down and become naturally creamy.

Notes From The Culinary Addict:

Yogism From @VinceyV (one of my yoga teachers): “I love this job because I get to work in my underwear.”

Recent 12-step Meeting Quote :”The only time to be dishonest is in front of a judge.”

-My high school served housemade red beans and rice on Mondays.

-Dirk is still one of my dearest friends. He has been a Salmon Biologist in Alaska for the past decade. I have a saying that sums up Dirk, “Everyone Loves The Dirk.” He is a world traveler that has a youthful yet realistic grasp and approach to life. He lives his life without judgement but certainly has an oppionion. I have experienced some of my fondest adventures with Dirk both high and sober. If I was ever to end up in a Foxhole I would want Dirk by my side.

-Dirk always said he would never get married until he meet the woman of his dreams. I asked him to tell me a little bit about her. The first thing he said was, “She is a hell of a hunter and gatherer.”

-Dirk introduced me to 2 important high school elements: First, Marijuana quickly followed by Black Sabbath.

-I learned more about Cajun cooking from Dirk and his family than cooking school and all chefs I have worked under.

-Dirk called his grandparents ME-MARE and PE-PARE. PE-PARE was a character and always had a Dixie or Light Beer in his hand

-When questioned by Andy’s dad during the car ride home after a drunken and stoned fishing trip went awry after a half-day of school where our buddy Andy passed out on the trail, authorities, red necks, lost keys, a boat, and a alligator were all involved I stated, “It must have been the Red Beans and Rice we had for lunch.” His father’s response, “Red Beans! Do you think I’m some sort of idiot?”

-Dirk got suspended in college by sleepwalking drunk into the RD’s bedroom and peeing on and around the RD. Dirk says he didn’t recall the experience but wish he did b/c the RD was an “Ass”.

Search Engine Words (words someone used to find this blog for whatever reason): “wasted on a bus”

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